Trip Report: October 31 to November 26, 2007
by Ted & Sylvia Blishak
GRAND LUXE LIMITED AND AMTRAK TO PITTSBURGH AND GREENVILLE, SOUTH CAROLINA
The Ultimate Railfan’s Hotel, and The GrandLuxe Limited
Friday, November 02, 2007
The Woodfin Suites Hotel, Emeryville, CA.
We left our balcony door open all night so as not to miss any train sounds, but it was very quiet until about 4am, when a series of freight trains passed by, followed by the beginning of the days hectic schedule of passenger trains. The San Francisco Bay fog was so thick, all we could make out were misty silhouettes.
Our friends from Klamath Falls had flown into Oakland in their private plane the previous afternoon, and we met them for breakfast at the emery-grill. He is a life-long train fan who grew up on the Milwaukee Road in Havre. She has been graciously accompanying him on his trips for many years.
Outstanding food and service were capped off by the maitre ‘d when, without being asked, he announced, "I’ve prepared two checks for you," and handed one to each couple!
We had made reservations for a complimentary hotel van transfer to the Amtrak Station. While we could have walked across the parking lot and used the pedestrian overpass, we decided on this for ease of luggage transfer. At 7:10am there was no driver ready. I asked the fullback-sized desk clerk about the van. He admitted that he had forgotten about us and ordered the other desk clerk, who was about 5’ 3” and 95 lbs., to drive us over. While trying to help us get our luggage out of the van, she knocked my laptop case onto the driveway, which damaged the connection to the battery.
There was a large crowd in the station waiting for the California Zephyr to depart. In addition, there was a large separate crowd awaiting the GrandLuxe Limited. The latter consisted of four sleepers, a lounge, a dining car, and a crew car, all coupled to the rear car of Amtrak’s California Zephyr. This exceptionally long consist was effortlessly powered by only two Genesis engines. Our combined train pulled into the Emeryville station at 7:50am, and by 8:10am was given the highball, only five minutes behind schedule.
Entering our Grand Suite in the sleeper Monte Carlo, we find the day’s schedule, beginning with -- of course -- breakfast in the dining car. Why not? We enjoyed fresh orange juice, hot coffee, plus oatmeal with brown sugar and raisins, along with a plate of fresh fruit.
What could we do after arising at 5am and enjoying two breakfasts? Why, take a nap, of course. I could get used to being pampered like this.
Sleeper Monte Carlo
The Sierra Nevada Range is extra dry this year. Readers familiar with the historic Central Pacific route across the Sierras know the high spots, such as Cape Horn, 1332 feet above the American River, Donner Pass (the original route now abandoned, replaced by a lengthy, and recently extended, tunnel), Donner Lake -- site of the horrific snow pack which entrapped the Donner Party of immigrants in 1846-47 -- the Truckee River Canyon, and Reno. Unfortunately for us, but fortunately for local drivers, you can no longer see Reno from the train as the roadbed has been sunk into a 30-foot-deep concrete trench in order to eliminate street traffic blockage as trains pass through town.
Crossing the Sierras by train is the best option; it is a very different than flying at 35,000 feet overhead, or dodging 18-wheelers on Interstate 80.
By 3:30pm we are speeding along the Truckee River though the ethereal beauty of the Nevada desert. Trees along the Truckee are turning gold and high, dry mountains form the horizon.
In some of these mountains, such as the Rubies near Elko, are glacially carved canyons, hiking trails, pristine lakes, waterfalls, snow, and ice. The alpine terrain is invisible from the valleys below.
We enjoy dinner at sunset and since the ride of these vintage cars is a bit rough for reading, we retire early, looking forward to our journey across Utah and Colorado tomorrow.
Dining on the Grand Luxe
PS. The onboard mechanic told us that new shocks have been installed, but due to the extreme cost of new springs, $80,000.00 per car, we are still riding on old springs, possible replacements of the original factory installation, and not tuned to the weight of the car, nor matched to the shocks. Anybody who has had non OEM shocks installed in his car will understand the problem.
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