Trip Reports by our Clients:
Far from the Madding Crowd
by Doug Sephton on the Royal Canadian Pacific
A Timeless Journey - that simple phrase cannot convey the exquisite isolation on board a train of such distinction. The experience is unique. Time is frozen in an era of luxury and creature comfort unparalleled in today's world. The Royal Canadian Pacific tour captures the essence of era of romantic rail travel, when Winston Churchill, Princess Elizabeth and other dignitaries rode in regal splendour. The journey transports us back to that time and, in a very real way, through space; across miles of spectacular scenery on a voyage of discovery. We are escorted on an exclusive guided tour of nature, history, culture and sport. Time spent on board is free of all intrusion and distraction. There is no demand for attention and no obligations to meet. Daily papers are provided for those with a need to know what is happening in the world. But, the trip is, as Thomas Gray wrote, Far from the madding crowdís ignoble strife.The cares of the day fall away - into the forests, mountains and rivers disappearing from view off the rear observation platform.
We are introduced to this unique experience upon entering the ìhotel within the hotel, the EntrÈe Gold of the Palliser. Separate check-in, large elegant rooms and a private lounge, decorated in classical empire style, with its over-stuffed leather sofa and under-stated opulence foretell the pleasures to come.
The tour begins at the foot of a spiral staircase leading up to the Grande Atrium of the Canadian Pacific Railway Pavilion. There to greet us are a red serge suited RCMP officer and Jonathan Hanna, Canadian Pacific Railwayís Corporate Historian. We are escorted to the boarding platform as bagpipes, a fluttering Canadian flag and a host of tour officials welcome us.
Our luggage has conveniently found its way to our private rooms. We settle into the cushioned comfort of the walnut-paneled lounge in the Mount Stephen ìday car. Here we will idle time between events as the tour unfolds.
The urban cityscape fades into the distance; the towering mountains rise before us. Traveling at 55 mph (90 kph), we arrive at the gateway to the Rocky Mountains in little more than an hour. Entering the Bow Valley, the river is a startlingly pale shade of green ñ a translucent ribbon flowing through verdant bush and majestic mountain parks. The Three Sisters' peaks tower over the town of Canmore. The railway mainly runs through undisturbed nature. Often times, the only signs of life are the elk, deer and coyotes bounding away from the clickity-clack of steel on steel.
We get aquainted with our traveling companions. We learn about their thoughts and opinions. These are interesting people, accomplished people. They are unique in their experiences and in the interests that have brought them here from far and wide. We share meals and conversation. There is time for both private contemplation and friendly companionship.
We stop in Banff, just long enough to allow a special guest to board. Edward Whymper was a mountain guide who first visited the Rockies in 1900 and later helped put this area on the mountaineering map. CPR sponsored Whymper and a number of Swiss mountain guides to encourage climbers and outdoor enthusiasts to come to the Rockies ñ by train of course. Whymper is the first of several characters who join the tour to share their stories with us.
Our lunch was true to its five-star characterization. We started with herbal-tomato salad with balsamic & virgin olive oil dressing and crispy pancetta. The main dish was baked Queen Charlotte Island fresh halibut filet with a fresh fruit salsa. Dessert was sorbet with ginger berry compote. The meal was accompanied by Picpoul de Pinet white wine from Hughes Beaulieu vintners.
Alberta is famous for the quality of its beef. The exquisite preparation of the tenderloin that was served for dinner took that taste sensation out of this world.
The dÈlicatesse that is expressed in the ambiance of these executive class vintage rail carriages carries through to the dress code. The casual business attire of the day is exchanged for semi-formal wear during the cocktail hour. The ladies' jewelry reflects in the silver service laid out on the dining table. Fresh orchids in the floral centerpiece are a rich Tuscan red, echoing the colours of the Royal Canadian Pacific.
The first of several off-train excursions on the tour takes us to Emerald Lake, with its striking blue-green water. Excursions are conducted on a luxury tour bus. This bus is so well mannered it kneels closer to the ground to allow us easy access. The bus will follow us for the duration of the tour, carrying us to private, exclusive tours of Fort Steele Historic Town, Canadian Museum of Rail Travel in Cranbrook, Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump Interpretive Centre and the Spruce Meadows Equestrian Show Jumping Centre near Okotoks.
Ho Jiggers, we're cominí up with all kinds of things now, says Bruce Bembridge, our naturalist interpretive guide. Bruce's enthusiasm for the natural world is infectious as he takes the ìposition of adoration. He has us down on our knees examining delicate blossoms of the wildflowers lighting up the trails. Bruce greeted us on our arrival in Field, B.C. He led us into the wild world, peeling the blinders from our eyes and stimulating our senses with the fragrant sap of the fir tree.
Bruce joins us on the train as we traverse the high alpine through the Kicking Horse River valley, the rapids below churning the water into a frothing torrent. We wave to the whitewater rafters bouncing and lurching downstream. At Golden we leave the main line and head south to the wetlands formed by the Columbia River. This area, the largest wetland in North America, is alive with wildlife. The population of two-toed mamals is second only to the Serengeti in Africa.
The service staff spares no effort to ensure that all of our needs are satisfied. Somehow they manage to do this without being intrusive, or even highly visible. On our return from off-train excursions we were greeted at the boarding platform with a smile, a welcome and a cool refreshing drink. When a rainsquall threatened to spoil an outing, the crew broke out several umbrellas to form a protective canopy between the train and tour bus. Idle musings about refreshments instantly brought forth a quenching beverage served on a silver tray.
The safety and security of tour members is assured. Security guards monitor the train while it is stationary during overnight stops at Invermere, Crowsnest Lake and Okotoks. Maintenance crews are active all along the route routinely checking operation of the cars and the condition of the railway tracks. At all times, the accompanying tour bus is only moments away should any passenger require off-train assistance.
As we roll south through the Valley of a Thousand Peaks, we are surrounded by wetlands and mountains on both sides of the track. We pass columns of rock known as hoodoos standing up from lime mud cliffs around milepost 85 near Luxor Creek. Our first night is spent overlooking Windermere Lake. A selection of fine cigars is offered for our enjoyment. We smoke and chat on the observation platform of the Mount Stephen car, just as Winston Churchill would have many decades ago.
We are entertained at several points along the way. Actors impersonate historical characters on the train and at Fort Steele where Mrs. Pugh and her children cajole us with a satirical repartee. They sing and dance, cavorting about the town site for our entertainment. Later, on the shores of Crowsnest Lake, musicians with guitar and violin serenade us with strains of Mozart, Bach and Hayden. The lake is a gem, set in high mountains, sparkling in the late day sun. The musical notes drift across the mirror-like surface of the water.
I've already revealed many of the delights of the tour, so I won't take away any more of the surprise. Of course, these simple words and pictures cannot possibly convey the quality of this eventful tour. Days on board the Royal Canadian Pacific are filled with experiences to tickle your fancy, soothe frayed nerves, and stimulate your palate as well as your intellect. There is nothing to compare. There is nothing finer.
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